My Woes with Sculpey

[drgnrbrn316]

Ok, I've finally bitten the bullet and delved into the world of sculpting my own parts. Sculpey being the most recognizeable brand and also being the easiest to find in my part of the world, I figured I'd give it a shot. Here's a brief overview of my trials with the substance that would become my bane.

• Giant Man's mask

  Trying to make a removeable mask for my Zombie Giant Man, I took a spare 2.5" minis head and sculpted the mask I wanted around it. I tried to remove the mask so that I could bake or boil it, but since Sculpey doesn't harden on its own, all I did was ruin my sculpt.

  Result: failure

  Lesson learned: Only cured Sculpey can be manipulated without altering the sculpt

• Giant Man's mask revisited

  This time, I sculpted the mask, then tossed the mask, head and all, into a pot of boiling water. Several minutes later, I removed the lot and tried to remove the mask. It had bonded to the head and any attempt to dislodge it resulted in the mask crumbling.

  Result: failure

  Lesson learned: A buffer should be placed between my Sculpey and anything I'm molding it around.

• Spider-Hulk's face

  Knowing that Sculpey bonds well with the plastic in minimates, I sculpted a brutish face for Spidey. One boil later, and I was happy with the end result.

  Result: success

• Giant Man's mask revisited

  Returning with my previously learned lessons, I tried again. Wrapping the head in plastic wrap, I sculpt my mask and boil. The plastic wrap bonds itself with the mask rather well, causing a great deal of trouble removing it from the final product. I finally dislodge it all and place the mask on Giant Man, only to discover that I had used too much thickness for the sculpt, plus it did not sit snuggly on the head, but rather moved freely.

  Result: failure

  Lesson learned: Sculpt a better product before curing it.

• Giant Man's mask revisited

  Sculpting a thinner mask, I tried again. Post boil, it looks ok, and seems to fit pretty well. I go to modify the eye holes and the whole mask is destroyed.

  Result: failure

  Lesson learned: Boiling Sculpey produces a far too fragile product to cut and modify freely.

• Enforcer hats

  Needing hats for my Enforcer customs, I decide to try my hand at Sculpey again. I wrap the head, sculpt a hat around it and then repeat the process for the number of hats necessary. Trying the baking approach, I proceed to burn my hats (not to a crisp, thankfully). I do notice that baked Sculpey (or at least burned Sculpey) has a more rubbery feel to it than the boiled variety.

  Result: failure

  Lesson learned: When baking, keep a watchful eye on your sculpts, as there is no set time on when they'll be done. Baked Sculpey may be more easily manipulated than boiled. Buy several Jokers when the DC mates come out.

• Sinister Six

  Undertaking the task of retooling all of my Sinister Six customs for the cover contest, I quickly come to the conclusion that I need modified parts that I cannot pull off strictly with my parts bin. Having heard that super glue can be used on Sculpey to harden it, I decide to give this a try. Vulture's feathers, Sandman's various accessories, Mysterio's cape, and Kraven's jacket all are sculpted and glued. After some time to harden and a layer or two of paint, I'm happy with the end result.

  Result: success

  Lesson learned: Super glue seems to work well for a hardening agent

• Giant Man's mask revisited

  After the results with my Sinister Six and super glue, I give this another try, using glue on the mask. I sculpt a mask, then apply a layer of glue on the exposed Sculpey, allowing plenty of time for the glue to dry. Upon trying to remove the mask, I found it much like grabbing a roasted marshmellow: hard on the outside, mushy on the inside. I proceed to gut the mask while trying to take it off.

  Result: failure

  Lesson learned: I hate Sculpey

So, with these modest, amateur attempts at Sculpey, I turn to you, the customizing kings, for help in this project. I've seen masks, hairpieces, and more made from Sculpey on the boards, yet I cannot figure out for the life of me how you've all done it. Any help on how to make things removeable, how best to cure Sculpey, who I can pay to do this for me, and how much they'll want as payment would be helpful. Thanks!

[TBT!]

The easiest way to make masks removable is to cover the head with tin foil. It's pretty thinslips off easily and heatproof for the oven.

As for other ways of curing sculpey... I sometimes use a hairdryer!! it's slow but wont melt the plastic you're attaching the sculpey too!

T.

[Cloneme]

You guys GOTTA start using this product!!!!!

http://www.avesstudio.com/html/fixit_sculpt.html

It's like a 2-part epoxy. No shrinkage or expansion, no cracking, doesn't droop or sag while drying, 4 hour working window, and cures completely in 24 hrs. It's completely paintable, sandable and works well with plastic, wood metal, ceramic, clay yadda yadda yadda.

[drgnrbrn316]

But then you go back to the issue of availability, much like Milliput. If its something I can go pick up from a store, then I'm sold. But I hate discovering I need something and having to wait several days just to get it.

[Cloneme]

Oh, totally. I agree. I haven't checked to see if this stuff is available in stores yet. It might say on their site. They make a lot of products so I wouldn't be surprised if it is.

[Jatta Pake]

Similar to Cloneme's stuff, I use Magic Sculp.

I can get it at my local hobby store so it isn't that inaccessible. I would recommend ordering either Cloneme's stuff, Magic Sculp, Milliput, or Warhammer Games Green Stuff. I believe all are two parts epoxy and hardener. They harden in a couple hours after you squish them together. It feels just like Sculpey but I think it is a tad bit stickier. This is good if you want to sculp more layers on a piece or attach directly to an existing hair piece. I use wax paper between my masks and heads. After the piece hardens you can slide the head right out.

I do like Sculpey though and I need to revisit experimenting with it. I had the EXACT same results with my Sculpey and became frustrated with it. But I never tried the boil or hairdry method and I know many people sculp beautiful pieces with Sculpey.

Another trick I use, Baby Powder. This prevents the clay or epoxy from sticking to your fingers or table or other things while working.

Finally, to remove fingerprints from my pieces, I rub the piece with water. Kinda tricky but this works extremely well with Magic Sculp and eliminates creases, fingerprints, etc.

[drgnrbrn316]

See, that's the major problem I keep running into. Greenville used to only have two outlets for hobby needs: Hungates and Michael's. For whatever reason, Hungates closed down (though we still have a warehouse for them here in town) and Michaels gears more towards art projects and scrapbooking/sewing/etc. I'd just as soon order something from the internet, but when you tag on shipping and everything, it can get expensive without having a lot to show for it. I have a huge brick of Sculpey at home that I found at Michaels that didn't cost me much. Since I've had to start ordering paints of the net, it looks like I'll be doing that with some two part epoxy in the near future though. If Hungates doesn't come back soon, my innocent little hobby is going to turn into a financial nightmare.

[skull buster]

can you buy any of the better sculpting stuff like milliput or fix it sculpt in stores or does it all have to be bought online?

[CRISIS Survivor]

i used to have the same problem with sculpey sticking to minimate heads but i fond a way to make it a little more stiff so i could take off the masks gloves etc. i mix sweet potato orange with black and leave it out for about a day and that makes it hard and less bonding so you can make it as thin as you want and it wont stick and most of the time it hardens in the same position you put it in as i hop that helps you and if it doesn't then it might have just been a fluke

[drgnrbrn316]

You may want to lay off the customizing for a while CRISIS, I think the fumes are getting to you.

[CRISIS Survivor]

You may want to lay off the customizing for a while CRISIS, I think the fumes are getting to you.

that may be so but it worked for me try it and see. if it doesn't then i am sorry. its not that out there is it...

PS sorry about all the typos i am so tired and cant type good to night

pps i just got why it made no sence try reading it now if not i try to explan to maro when i am more awake

[jcastick]

Here are some customs I've done using sculpty:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jcastick/det...p;.dnm=ab3d.jpg

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jcastick/det...p;.dnm=5089.jpg

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jcastick/det...p;.dnm=b939.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b17/jcastick/ElMuerto2.jpg

I don't usually make my helmets or what not removeable, so I usually just sculpt what I want on the figure and use a butane lighter to "bake" and harden the outside. This sometimes allows the part you sculpted on to slip out and you can then fire the inside and harden that.

You also don't want to do this too long, or else the sculpty will blacken and bubble....ends up looking a bit weird.

Hope that helps a bit!

[antacost]

I use Super Sculpey. It holds the detail better and is easier to work with than the plain old regular Sculpey.

Like TBT! said, wrap the head (or other part) in tin foil before sculpting onto it. I usually will take a 1" strip (for a 2" figure head), and fold that over in two lenght wise. Now I've got a 1/2" strip (about the right height of the head, with a bit to fold over the top. Wrap it around the head two or three times. This will give you enough of a cushion to deal with shrinkage. Sculpt the part. Remove the sculpt and the tin foil. I use a toaster oven to cure everything. Set the heat low. I usually turn the know until the 'oven turns on. I haven't burnt a part in a long while...

To avoid fingerprints in the part, I wear latex gloves.

Don't get in a hurry. Removable parts take some getting used to, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes pretty easy.

The super glue trick also works great. I've saved many a thin part by putting a coating of glue on it. I'm working on a headpiece right now that I've broken about 6 times while cutting and sanding. Once I coated it, it's solid.

[Jatta Pake]

I use Super Sculpey. It holds the detail better and is easier to work with than the plain old regular Sculpey.

Like TBT! said, wrap the head (or other part) in tin foil before sculpting onto it. I usually will take a 1" strip (for a 2" figure head), and fold that over in two lenght wise. Now I've got a 1/2" strip (about the right height of the head, with a bit to fold over the top. Wrap it around the head two or three times. This will give you enough of a cushion to deal with shrinkage. Sculpt the part. Remove the sculpt and the tin foil. I use a toaster oven to cure everything. Set the heat low. I usually turn the know until the 'oven turns on. I haven't burnt a part in a long while...

To avoid fingerprints in the part, I wear latex gloves.

Don't get in a hurry. Removable parts take some getting used to, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes pretty easy.

The super glue trick also works great. I've saved many a thin part by putting a coating of glue on it. I'm working on a headpiece right now that I've broken about 6 times while cutting and sanding. Once I coated it, it's solid.

I'm going to have to give Super Sculpey a shot using yours and TBT's methods.

[jcastick]

I must add that I use Super Sculpey as well.........i honestly thought thats what we were talking about! lol.........

[antacost]

There's a big difference between Sculpey and Super Sculpey. Sculpey is (in the big, blocked bricks) white and is aLOT softer than Super. I've never like Sculpey. I had to get some "in a pinch" years ago, and ended up throwing the whole brick out... Crappy stuff. Spend the extra bit and go for the Sculpey, your temper will thank you for it.

[Shamrock]

For removeable masks and such, I reccomend Green Stuff.

It air drys, and is slightly rubebry when dry

[jcastick]

I've always used Super Sculpey....had to use it for school and such, So i have just been used to using it.

It is also hard for me to find the other types of modeling material around here.

Guess I just have alot of patience with the stuff..lol

[She-Thing]

As for other ways of curing sculpey... I sometimes use a hairdryer!! it's slow but wont melt the plastic you're attaching the sculpey too!

T.

How long are you with the hairdryer, more or less?

[TBT!]

How long are you with the hairdryer, more or less?

Totally depends on the thickness of the piece, its it's something really thick then it needs baking, I use ( or used to use as the hairdrier in my apt and it's owner just moved out.) it for stuff like hair pieces etc.

Something like a ponytail for a hair piece is a few minutes, I"m still working it out as it's trial and error really.

Btw it's good to have you back and posting again

T.

[She-Thing]

Hey ! Thanks for your help. Perhaps I'll use a hairdryer for a whole minimate hair *insert irony here* and I thought some wings... though I guess they have to go in the oven (yum)