A 2-part Question for Jatta Pake

[Cappy]

Hey JP! (or any one else who cares to answer) Concerning 2-part modeling epoxies:

I've worked with GW's Green Stuff and it cures as a fairly flexible plastic, this resiliency can make it difficult to sand or grind.

Plumber's Epoxy sets up rock hard, it's amazing stuff but you'll need power tools to do any shaping after it dries.

I've read that Milliput is fairly hard, but can be brittle.

Where in this range does Magic Sculp fall?

[boyd]

I'm not JP, but I do know Magic Sculpt, so my two cents:

Magic Scuplt cures hard, but not rock-hard. You can sand it pretty easy with sandpaper, and even carve it with an exacto-knife if you need to. But it can be brittle depending on how thick the piece is - the thinner the piece, the easier it is to break.

Your results may vary depending on how you mix the Magic Sculpt. I tend to mix it quickly and sometimes don't keep the proportions in the right scale. One time by accident I was able to create a batch that cured solid, but can bend and flex like an eraser.

[Jatta Pake]

That is exactly right.

The drawback to Magic Sculp that I have recently encountered concerns using small files. After filing away on a piece, the tiny specs of sculp hardened onto my file. Same thing happened when I tried to Dremmel sand a piece. The sculp coated the grit with a fine layer of hard stuff. It made my Dremmel sandpaper bit gray and smooth.

Sculpey, on the other hand, will not re-harden after being sanded. I still prefer Magic Sculp for all the reasons Boyd says above, I just use lots of sand paper to sand it down.

The flexible Green Stuff sounds interesting. I may have to try that. I've wanted to cast my own Minimate capes but Magic Sculp is too hard.

[groundhog7s]

For what it's worth, there is a Sculpey that dries flexible. It's got all of the drawbacks of Sculpey, but makes a good cape.