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Mystery Man's Minimate and Lego Modifications


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At first glance this Cap may seem like nothing new. But take a look at his feet. Specifically, how they can TURN. :thumbsup:

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About the only qualm I've had with the cuffed boots have been the lack of articulation with standing/posing due to their in-ablity to move. I changed that tonight with an extra Civil War TRU Cap. It was a little patience trying and it's easy to cut too much without meaning to. I soaked the part in scalding hot water and then put the boot on a leg I don't mind getting scratched up to hold it. With one of these (http://tinyurl.com/d87rom3) I cut the foot off of the cuffed part. Very easy to cut too much and catch some of the cuff (as I ruined one boot in the attempt).

Then I used one of these (http://tinyurl.com/cnnj7b9) to trim the remaining part of the boot off of the underside. That was quite a task and took several dunks in the scalding water. I found that if I cut a thin line into the bottom of the remaining plastic, then flipped it over and stuck the 1st type of knife point first along the inside perimeter of the boot to make little indentions, when I turned it back upside down it was easier to cut with the 2nd type knife. Does that make sense? I then gave him regular feet from the first version of Red Hulk that came out.

Anyways, it works and I think it improves the figure 1,000 fold.

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Edited by Mystery Man
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It works really well, but I'm trying to find a better way to cut the remaining plastic off the bottom of the cuff after I've removed the foot. I'm thinking a small, flat-head screwdriver... sharpen the end of it to where it'll cut and then push it straight down into the inside cuff part and "cookie cutter" out the extra plastic on the bottom. Haven't gotten a chance to try it out yet, but I think it could work.

Also, did a little fiddling today and came up with a comic book Odin that I'm incredibly pleased with. Take a look:

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Some ghostly "how-to" pictures for making a Minimate/Lego ghost. All you need are solid white arms/hands (I prefer white plastic, not white painted), a white torso block, a black Lego "head" and Lego ghost "sheet".

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Left photograph: Hold the white torso block tightly with a pair of pliers. I prefer needle-nose and use your other hand to use the rough-edged file and sand down the torso in a line.

Middle photograph: Notice the placement of the file on the torso block. You'll want to make sure you don't sand off too much of the torso or you could eventually hit the neck and then it won't work as well. You don't want to Minimate torso to be too loose/tight under the sheet.

Right photograph: Here's what the torso'll look like from the side as you're progressing to sand it down. When you get to the bottom of it, carefully trim off the excess "flap" of torso with an exacto knife. Then use the same knife to whittle off the sides of the block where sanded plastic has built up.

Once you get the torso done, you may have to sand the Minimate neck peg down ever so slightly to get the black Lego "head" to fit on it. You don't want it to be too loose, so I recommend sanding a little at a time. It still needs to keep it's round shape and shouldn't take much sanding at all. I found that older 'mate torso's needed it and newer ones didn't require it at all.

Here's what the sanded front should look like with the Lego "head" on it:

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Lastly, use a "hovering" Minimate flight stand to simulate floating and you're all set with an army of spooks!

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Edited by Mystery Man
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Updated trench coat Thing!

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For the hands:

- I sanded down the wrists on the hands so they'd be "smaller" and fit inside the cuffs. Now they're just the smooth white plastic underneath.

- I cut the hands off the variant wrists, used a drill to "hollow" out the existing peg and other plastic material.

- Then I heated them in boiling water and slide them down a drill bit that was bigger than the circumference out. Left 'em for about twenty minutes like that.

- Heated them again along with the hands so that they'd all be squishy and soft and just fit the hands into the cuffs.

- Lastly, put a little lotion on the arm holes so that they'll move smoothly with the hands on 'em.

For the hat:

- Just cut off the hair from the Howard Stark minimate hat/hairpiece. I've got several Things's, so I glued it on to make sure it's stay put.

Edited by Mystery Man
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  • 9 months later...

As promised, here's the whole gang of alternate Universal Monsters I've got.

- seeing the Creature from behind will become apparent in a couple of pictures below. Easy-peasy recipe's include:

- all clear parts and Trenchcoat Thing's sunglasses for the Invisible Man. Book courtesy of my swell girlfriend and a Buffy Palz figure. (Those glasses are a pain to glue on and keep straight while leaving the head without any super glue residue, so be warned.)

- the Bride has regular Mummy arms/legs/crotch for her bandages (I found the b&w too dark and Mumm-Ra didn't have matching color feet) plus the torso and skirt from Star Trek's Lt. Ilia. This gives her the same "bandages/skirted" look as the original, but spices it up without losing the feel while gaining some poseability.

- the Monster is using the Herman Munster parts that board member ufemizm was kind enough to take a quick pic of for me before I purchased said-Munster. The shackles are Lego, only cut in half so he can motion monsterously.

- ol' Dracula is sporting a Van Helsing coat, trimmed down the middle and replaced with the middle part from his cloak. This was rather a pain to do as well and a couple of Drac capes/three Van Helsing coats were used before I got one perfect and one with a minor flaw.

- Quasimodo has the bottoms of his legs and torso filed down using a Dremel so he'll have more shortness. Below are comparison pictures/explanations for him as well as the Creature.

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- Quas legs compared to non-filed down legs for comparison. Remember, do a little at a time rather than go crazy. You can't put plastic back!

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- and here are the Quas to non-Quas torso's, as seen from the side:

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- Lastly, I was never happy that my beloved Creature's feet never fit perfectly and that the bottom of his head in the back had excess from the "hair" piece. So here are a couple of pictures to illustrate how I fixed 'em. I actually did all the work on him within the first little bit after he'd been released but don't recall if I ever chronicled it on here. So, for the sake of sharing, here 'tis:

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The head was carved down ever so slightly in the back at an angle so that it doesn't peek out from underneath the back of the "hair" piece. You can see it isn't very much at all. Be careful not to cut right into the hole that'll connect to the neck, though. Too much, and his head will fall off. Again, I learned that one the hard way.

The legs were sanded down on the backs so that the foot-fin would flow more smoothly up the back of the leg. Hopefully you can see that in the pictures as well. Then, because I hated them flapping around, I ever so gently glued JUST the foot fins onto the backs of the legs. I think I even squished them down with some pliers ever so slightly at the tips so they'd fit and he could bend his knees. It does restrict the feet from turning ever so slightly but I don't ever really pose him going completely pigeon-toed, so it's a non-issue for me.

... plus, I have a *lot* of extra's of these guys to manipulate, so if you only have one and you feel like experimenting, be careful not to ruin your only copy of the figure. I'm happy to answer any questions or take further pictures to illustrate, if need be.

Hope you all like! smile.png

Edited by Mystery Man
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I never play with my Larry Talbot much. After all, we didn't get Maleva, the Gypsy or her son Bela. *whistling.gif

So I used a a spare Larry's spare suit on the Invisible Man, since he wears one in the film at one point. Also, decided to show off the Mummy again (where dj87 kindly painted the head/hair to capture my idea). After all, that is one cool Mummy and I just love Universal Monsters so much. wub.png

2011-06-11121837_zps5c285038.jpg

Edited by Mystery Man
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