MiniFiend UK Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 I just found a great site with hundreds of images of Marvel characters done in the X-Men: Evolution style. It'll be a good resource for anyone hunting around for reference photos for their customs. Click here Ohh geekgasm that site has so many pics just think of all the minimates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dio Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 Quick question: What is the safest way to remove the original paint from a Minimate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke314pi Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 Quick question: What is the safest way to remove the original paint from a Minimate? I use a product called Goof Off that I get at the hardware store (and they have a website). I put a little bit on an old rag or a cotton swab, and it rubs the paint right off. If I need to be more exact, it is possible to remove the lines and such by using a sharp hobby knife. You need to be very careful and steady when doing this so you don't make a gouge in the minimate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winkerbean Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 nail polish remover is the best and if you went to remove small/fine detail i use my gf's nail polish remover pen like this one http://www.lafemmenails.com/Nail-Polish-Re...lypage.tpl.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dio Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 And neither of these will melt the plastic? I have 100% acetone for other things but I won't use it in this case XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyejinx1984 Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 OH MY GOD. Anyone who's ever attempted a Black Bolt custom... tell me, did getting the little thing on his forehead just right drive you absolutely bat shit crazy? I have the whole figure done.. and no matter what I do, paper, plastic, sticker, krazy glue... getting that little thing on his forehead created is just the most infuriating thing in the world. You wouldn't think it, but a combination of the shape you'd have to cut out, and how small it is (meaning it's hard to get into those grooves between the 'horns' of it, etc...) is just insane... I've gone through like 12 different head thingies. I can't get that little symbol right no matter what I do. HELP!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mabait1020 Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 i know someone already asked this question before... but.... how do you sculpt a clear ironman? or can anybody do it for me for $$$ or even my wants?? pls. pm me some tips thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dio Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 TBT! can help you there, check out his clear Iron Man. His thread is on the first page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Punisher Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 This is kinda dumb, but what do you guys use to sculpt??? My local hobby shop closed down recently ( ), so i have no access to hobby supplies other than on-line and a train shop 30 minutes away... So basically, can somebody recommend a brand that i can (preferably) buy on-line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthRaider Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Try looking these up online, I guess. Shouldn't be too hard. If they have official websites then hopefully they should have a list of merchants/distributors you coould find in your area too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Punisher Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Try looking these up online, I guess. Shouldn't be too hard. If they have official websites then hopefully they should have a list of merchants/distributors you coould find in your area too. Ahhhh, must have missed that entry at the factory... thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke314pi Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 (edited) This is kinda dumb, but what do you guys use to sculpt??? My local hobby shop closed down recently ( ), so i have no access to hobby supplies other than on-line and a train shop 30 minutes away... So basically, can somebody recommend a brand that i can (preferably) buy on-line? Here is the blog entry I wrote over at the Factory comparing the main brands for minimate use. All three are available online. Edit: Oops, I didn't see the last page of this post where NorthRaider already linked to this. Edited February 22, 2009 by luke314pi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aethyr Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 I have two questions with regards to waterslide decals. First, I was curious to know how water-proof ink-jet printer ink is when printed on the waterslide decal paper and the submerged in water. Is there any colour bleeding or smearing? Secondly, I've seen references to clear-coating the decal once applied and dry. I've used a spray matt varnish for acrylic paints when doing miniatures and I wondered if this was applicable/safe to over decals. Or is the clear coat a different substance entirely. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyd Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 I have two questions with regards to waterslide decals. First, I was curious to know how water-proof ink-jet printer ink is when printed on the waterslide decal paper and the submerged in water. Is there any colour bleeding or smearing? Secondly, I've seen references to clear-coating the decal once applied and dry. I've used a spray matt varnish for acrylic paints when doing miniatures and I wondered if this was applicable/safe to over decals. Or is the clear coat a different substance entirely. Thanks Ink-jet ink is very water soluable. If you don't seal the decal sheet before using, then the ink will just run when you try to use them. Always apply a coat of fixative spray on the decal sheet before you use them - usually the decal paper manufacturers will recommend one to use. As for applying matte varnish to finished decals - it won't hurt them since they've already been sealed. I've applied Testor's Dullcote to lots of decals, and it's never hurt them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisted Two-Face Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Boyd, i've been meaning to ask you. On your Black Canary, where did you purchase the fishnets?? I'm really needing to appease my lack-of need with her, and would love to use real fishnet stockings instead of Sharpey. Also, on Bobby Drake, i really, really love your work here. It's fantastic. So much that i want my own, in my style. Can you give any advice to a good hairpiece to use, since my sculpting skills fall where my drawing is way up there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke314pi Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Ink-jet ink is very water soluable. If you don't seal the decal sheet before using, then the ink will just run when you try to use them. Always apply a coat of fixative spray on the decal sheet before you use them - usually the decal paper manufacturers will recommend one to use. This is good to know. I have only used laser decal paper so far, which doesn't need to be coated beforehand. I added this info to my decal tutorial. I was obviously missing an important step for people using inkjet paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyd Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Boyd, i've been meaning to ask you. On your Black Canary, where did you purchase the fishnets?? I'm really needing to appease my lack-of need with her, and would love to use real fishnet stockings instead of Sharpey. Also, on Bobby Drake, i really, really love your work here. It's fantastic. So much that i want my own, in my style. Can you give any advice to a good hairpiece to use, since my sculpting skills fall where my drawing is way up there?? The fishnet fabric is called tulle (pronounced twall) - it's a fine mesh that's used for skirts and other clothes. You should be able to buy it at any fabric store or well-stocked Wal-Mart fabric section. Bobby Drake hair? I think the Emil Blonsky hair would work well - it's the right color already. If you don't mind painting, you could try the Civil War Iron Man hairpiece or the Jigsaw hairpiece for the 90's spikey look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge2100 Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 (edited) I have a stupid question--I'm about to attempt my first decals today, to be more specific, I am working on guile from SF--basically I am using a head arms, and torso that already have the default minimate fleshcolor so I don't want flesh color coming from the decal. Basically, does anyone know of the best way to make the already created decal (**thanks to Luke's Factory!**) transparent except for the facial features and eyes? I will need to do this for a a few other SF customs as well as I have already painted the heads the colors I want. I'm using Adobe Photoshop CS4, I've used the magic tool to select and color the decal white, however I am worried this will cause the decal to actually be white and not transparent (or clear except for the facial expression). I'm trying to minimize on the trial and error to waste this expensive paper. Thanks for your help! Edited April 26, 2010 by edge2100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groundhog7s Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 Off hand, I would recommend using a transparent decal, but that's probably not an option since it sounds like you've already got one printed. I just say this for next time, that there are transparent sheets available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge2100 Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 Off hand, I would recommend using a transparent decal, but that's probably not an option since it sounds like you've already got one printed. I just say this for next time, that there are transparent sheets available. I haven't printed yet--Doh, now I realize that it is white decal paper. So I guess that takes care of that question haha--this color matching isn't going to be easy. I assume I will never end up with a perfect match either..rats! I actually couldn't find too many options for decal paper. But now that I already have purchased it I'll just have to deal with it. Any suggestions for color matching? Anyone notice that minimatefactory site is down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnwebslinger Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 I'm sorry, I feel like an idiot but I think this is the best place to ask, and I think I HAVE to ask. I've been trying to make an Iron Spidey, and I can't paint it properly. I've tried twice, with both attempts ending in bitter failure. So this is what I do: I take apart the Minimate - head, torso, arms, legs and feet - and coat them with Tamiya Chrome Silver. It's tricky to apply but it dries evenly. The problem starts when I start applying Tamiya Clear Red after the coat dries. It...kinda melts the silver coating, turning it into a gummy mess that sticks to my brush and slides off the figure. What should I do? Is it the paint? Should I sandpaper the Minimate first? I never encountered this problem when I was still customizing 4" and 6" figures. Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youbastards Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Are you using the acrylic paint from a jar, or are you using a spray paint to coat it chrome? If it's spray, that is most likely your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnwebslinger Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 From a jar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youbastards Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 (edited) Hmm, and both paints are acrylics, right? I've never used them, so I can't really say for sure, but one of the people at my local hobby shop once told me that Tamiya acrylics are not "true" acrylics and that they are an acrylic enamel with an oil base? Does anyone else who uses them know if there is any truth to that? I use Citadel paints, and other than needing to be thinned out a little, they work great on Minimates. Edited June 29, 2010 by youbastards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke314pi Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Tamiya's silver paint is a lot different than other brands. It has little sparkly pieces in with the paint, like glitter, or possibly they are little pieces of metal. I have had problems with it in the past. I would suggest trying a different brand. Like youbastards said, Citadel makes some nice paints, and their silver works very well. Also the basic cheap Testors silver paint is also good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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