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Big update:

I had some free time over the holidays and decided to clear a bunch of in-progress customs off my workbench. Then, I promptly got busy working on freelance stuff and ended up not having time to photograph anything. I was shooting some other stuff over the weekend and slated these in.

HavokRogue.jpg

Uncanny Avengers Havok and Rogue

I love Cassaday's simple redesigns of classic costumes. Selfishly, I hope these aren't in the upcoming comic wave that may or may not be current X-men.

Cage.jpg

Thunderbolts Luke Cage

Hahahaha it's funny because... well, you know. I like my control gauntlets better. So nyah. smile.png

WhiteQueen.jpg

Classic White Queen

I thought she could to with an update to bring her in line with more modern 'mate design. Head and hair swap, and a more detailed chest decal design.

FF.jpg

Future Foundation

This group had been in progress for a while. When we got those wings with Annihilus, how could I not do Dragon Man? I just happened to have some plastic test tube thingies that fit another bit I found in my parts bin to make Turg, the floating Moloid head. Thunderkitten bodies for the kids.

Alice.jpg

Alice

Better hair, poofy sleeves, and a Vorpal Blade. Snicker Snack!

That's all I got.

Edited by Lobsterman
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Thanks for the kind words, everyone.

HP: Sadly, no, just the smart head for Dragon Man. I'll try to take some more pics this weekend or next.

YB: I do use a tablet. The decals are on clear paper; I mask the eyes and paint them white first. It's an extra step, but worth it, I think.

Fujis: Mystery Man is going to cry when he reads that. :D

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Very cool, i would love to see a tutorial if you were inclined. What tablet/app are you using? Also brand of waterslide decals/sealent? All of the Papilio waterslide decals I've tried end up leaving the adhesive on the paper backing instead of the decal. I switched to adhesive film because of this.

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Very cool, i would love to see a tutorial if you were inclined. What tablet/app are you using? Also brand of waterslide decals/sealent? All of the Papilio waterslide decals I've tried end up leaving the adhesive on the paper backing instead of the decal. I switched to adhesive film because of this.

I second that!

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I do the designs in Illustrator, and use an old Wacom Bamboo tablet; it's nothing fancy, but gets the job done. I still use the old-fashioned point-to-point mouse clicking with bezier curves for a lot of it.

For masks, I use Avery clear label sheets for laser printers; for the decals, I use clear decal paper for laser printers from Bare Metal Foil Co. I've tried a lot of waterside decal sheets, and I think theirs is the best quality and most durable. Once applied, I use Solvaset decal activator, then spray with a couple coats of varnish (usually flat) from Microscale Industries – I like it because it's airbrushable and doesn't yellow.

I'd love to do a tutorial if I can scrape together some time on a weekend, I'll see what I can do.

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I do the designs in Illustrator, and use an old Wacom Bamboo tablet; it's nothing fancy, but gets the job done. I still use the old-fashioned point-to-point mouse clicking with bezier curves for a lot of it.

For masks, I use Avery clear label sheets for laser printers; for the decals, I use clear decal paper for laser printers from Bare Metal Foil Co. I've tried a lot of waterside decal sheets, and I think theirs is the best quality and most durable. Once applied, I use Solvaset decal activator, then spray with a couple coats of varnish (usually flat) from Microscale Industries – I like it because it's airbrushable and doesn't yellow.

I'd love to do a tutorial if I can scrape together some time on a weekend, I'll see what I can do.

Wow, nice work, the extra steps are definitely worth it. Are you just using an xacto to make the holes in the mask for eyes, mouth, etc, then airbrushing those areas white, then aligning the decal on top? That's gotta be some precision cutting on the mask.

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I do the designs in Illustrator, and use an old Wacom Bamboo tablet; it's nothing fancy, but gets the job done. I still use the old-fashioned point-to-point mouse clicking with bezier curves for a lot of it.

For masks, I use Avery clear label sheets for laser printers; for the decals, I use clear decal paper for laser printers from Bare Metal Foil Co. I've tried a lot of waterside decal sheets, and I think theirs is the best quality and most durable. Once applied, I use Solvaset decal activator, then spray with a couple coats of varnish (usually flat) from Microscale Industries I like it because it's airbrushable and doesn't yellow.

I'd love to do a tutorial if I can scrape together some time on a weekend, I'll see what I can do.

Wow, nice work, the extra steps are definitely worth it. Are you just using an xacto to make the holes in the mask for eyes, mouth, etc, then airbrushing those areas white, then aligning the decal on top? That's gotta be some precision cutting on the mask.

I think we now know a workshop that lobby will be doing at the meetup! Paint masking 101

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Months since my last update, and it's not even a Minimate custom... dun dun dunnnn

My time in the garage with paint, dremel, and glue has been cut way down with a baby around, so I've had to turn to a more inside-friendly customizing fix. Kre-o Transformers have provided just that (although now we have the small part choking hazard issue...)

I love the idea behind the Micro Changer combiners, and they're a lot of fun in person, but none of them I'm played with so far have been especially on model to the original source material. Case in point, Devastator:

3EFA5AB750569047F5DC44678AE839B5.jpg

They got the colors right, I guess, but everything else is kind of a semi-random mishmash of parts. So, I decided to have a go:

dev.jpg

Mostly the same parts from the kit, just moved around a bit, and with a couple Lego pieces added. Now you've got Scrapper's funny "high-heel shoe" configuration for the right leg, Mixmaster's critical mixing drum (what the hell is that thing they used, like a bong or something?) on the left, Scavenger on on the right shoulder with his treads where they ought to be, and Bonecrusher on the left shoulder instead of a random purple hinge piece.

Unlike Minimates, where sculpting, painting, cutting, etc is fair game, I consider it "cheating" to actually physically modify a building block piece. So, I only had to cheat once here, cutting down that bong thing a bit. It's making me a little crazy that the Lego cone pieces I used for Mixmaster's drum aren't quite the same color as the other gray pieces, but I probably won't stay awake at night thinking about whether I should paint it...

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  • 1 year later...

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